Lights Flickering: What Could Be The Trouble?


Question:

I have seen our lights flicker, sometimes staying out for three seconds and then they come back on. My husband checked the circuits in the basement and all is well. What could be the problem? I should mention, that our neighbors’ lights have been fine, so it’s definitely internal. At times all the lights go out throughout the house and sometimes they do not.

Answer:

Of all the symptoms that an electrical system can have, groups of lights that flicker is, in my opinion, the scariest. I suspect that you are getting some arcing somewhere. Arcing occurs when wire connections are close to each other, but not fully touching. The electric current jumps the gap, like lightning, and creates some heat. This heat could be minor, or it could be a serious problem, depending on how much current is jumping across the gap, and how wide the gap is.

This is not the same as a short circuit, although both can give off sparks. A short circuit occurs when the hot wire touches the neutral or ground wire, and normally the circuit breaker or fuse will trip, shutting off the power.

Arcing can occur for hours, days, weeks, even years, and it will never trip a conventional circuit breaker. 

Arcing can cause enough heat buildup to start a fire. I don’t want to alarm you, but this could be serious.

Anyway, I would strongly recommend that you call an electrician at the earliest possible opportunity. I suspect that a wire has come loose somewhere, and troubleshooting is not something I can explain in an article. But you can try shutting off various circuits to see if the flickering can be narrowed down to a certain area. Many newer houses have all of their lights on one or two circuits, so it’s possible that the problem is limited to a lighting circuit. I strongly suggest you turn off all lights at night (most people do anyway) and perhaps even the water heater if it’s electric. Turn off the refrigerator at night if its lights are flickering. And make sure you have working smoke alarms. I’d put a battery-powered smoke alarm near the breaker panel, for now, just in case.

Please have this problem examined by a knowledgeable person as soon as possible.

Posted under Simple Home Maintenance

This post was written by admin on August 5, 2009

Ceiling Fans

 In a few month from now, summer will be here and you know what that means - the heat! The best way to save energy and keep your home cool is to install ceiling fans. Ceiling fan performance and energy savings rely heavily on the proper installation and use of the ceiling fan. Here are a few tips to ensure quality and product performance.

Note: Consumers should read and understand manufacturer instructions before attempting to install a ceiling fan.

Choosing the Appropriate UL-Rated Electrical Box

Make sure that you use the appropriate UL-listed metal box, marked “For Use With Ceiling Fans.” This outlet box is mounted above the ceiling and also is the point where the fan is attached. This box houses all wiring needed to operate and connect the ceiling fan. If you are replacing a ceiling fixture, most likely you will need to replace the electrical box.

Mounting the Ceiling Fan

If possible, the ceiling fan should be anchored to a ceiling joist. In the case that the joist is not located in the center of the room, a special ceiling fan mounting bracket with spiked ends should be installed between joists. Keep in mind that ceiling fans can weigh as much as 50 pounds!

Balancing a Wobbly Fan

All fan blades should be balanced prior to shipment; however, if the fan is wobbly after installation, there are ways to fix it. First, make sure that all connections are properly aligned and tightly fastened. Check the alignment of the blades by holding a yardstick vertically along the edges; you may be able to gently bend a misaligned blade holder back into proper place. If all blades are aligned, a balancing kit can then be used to pinpoint the culprit. These kits are either provided within product packaging (e.g., balancing clips and blade weights) or can be sent by the manufacturer free of charge. 

Turn Off When not in the Room

Ceiling fans cool people, not rooms. If the room is unoccupied, turn off the ceiling fan to save energy.

Using the Ceiling Fan Year Round

In the summer, use the ceiling fan in the counter-clockwise direction. While standing directly under the ceiling fan you should feel a cool breeze. The airflow produced creates a wind-chill effect, making you “feel” cooler. In the winter, reverse the motor and operate the ceiling fan at low speed in the clockwise direction. This produces a gentle updraft, which forces warm air near the ceiling down into the occupied space. Remember to adjust your thermostat when using your ceiling fan — additional energy and dollar savings could be realized with this simple step!

Be Blessed!

Marie Portis

Posted under Simple Home Maintenance

This post was written by admin on April 4, 2009

Adding Spring Colors to Your Home

For March Madness I was thinking that spring was coming, so I wanted to do some changes to my house without spending a lot of money.  As women, we can spend more than intended. Spring is a beautiful season to make some changes in decor to your home. There are wonderful ways to add spring colors to your home, so here are some ideas that you may consider doing:
 
1.  Change your curtains in each room or the main rooms you spend time in to create a spring look. Replace your current curtains with ones that are either plain white, beige, light yellow, light pink, light blue, lavender or with spring blossoms. Take down those dark winter curtains and bring the brightness of spring in.
 
2.   Lighten up your home by painting one or all your walls in pastel colors. Change the paintings on your walls and place paintings of blossoming flowers.
 
3.  If your furniture is dark colored, put slipcovers on the couches and chairs around your house that are lighter colors, pastel colors or have a spring design. This can change the tone of your room for the season.
You can also add decorative colors in lighter tone.
 
4.  Decorate your dining room by replacing your regular tablecloth with bright colors, such as soft pinks, bright yellow, and soft green. Have a table runner with spring designs. Choose placemats that go along with your new tablecloth.
 
5.  For your bathroom, add a light new shower curtain, along with matching decorative towels, rugs, and a toilet seat cover.
 
6.  In the bedrooms you can replace your heavy comforters with light spring color quilts. Coordinate your sheet sets with your bedspread. Add a couple of light colored throw pillows as well.
 
by Marie Portis

Posted under Simple Home Maintenance

This post was written by admin on March 16, 2009

What To Get Your Husband For Valentine’s Day?

I was thinking about what I should write for the month of February, and I remembered that Valentine’s Day was coming. I thought about when I worked in the construction field and how the men would discuss if only their wives or girlfriends would give them gifts that would reflex their perfect Valentine’s Day.

 
Below I have listed the suggestions that they considered to be romantic gifts for Valentine’s Day:
 
1.  Black & Decker Auto Adjustable Wrench.
2.  A 3/4″ Tap & Die set for threading wood dowels and threading the holes for the dowels.
3.  A Cordless Drill.
4.  A Belt Sander.
5.  10 oz Finisher Hammer.
6.  A nice Tool Bag, with Organization Compartments.
7.  A Gift Certification for “Alone Time,” to be used anytime he pleases.
8.  A Home Depot or Lowe’s Gift Cards
 
I realize that not all husband are handy, but as loving wives, we should search for those items that will last long pass Valentine’s Day and turn their day into a day of sweet giving. 
 
Marie Portis

Posted under Simple Home Maintenance

This post was written by admin on February 3, 2009

Home Care Solutions

I read somewhere that the cost of commercial, chemical-based products can be high — long term health concerns for the family, and environmental pollution caused by their manufacture and disposal. In the US, for example, 1 in 3 people suffer from allergies, asthma, sinusitis or bronchitis (US National Center for Health Statistics). Treatment for these conditions should include reducing synthetic chemicals in the home environment.

For many home-cleaning chores, you can make your own cleaning products using the formulas listed below.  There are many inexpensive, easy-to-use natural alternatives which can safely be used in place of commercial household products. Here is a list of common, environmentally safe products which can be used alone or in combination for a wealth of household applications.


Baking Soda - cleans, deodorizes, softens water, scours.

 

Soap - unscented soap in liquid form, flakes, powders or bars is biodegradable and will clean just about anything. Avoid using soaps which contain petroleum distillates.

 

Lemon - one of the strongest food-acids, effective against most household bacteria.

Borax - (sodium borate) cleans, deodorizes, disinfects, softens water, cleans wallpaper, painted walls and floors.

 

White Vinegar - cuts grease, removes mildew, odors, some stains and wax build-up.

 

Washing Soda - or SAL Soda is sodium carbonate decahydrate, a mineral. Washing soda cuts grease, removes stains, softens water, cleans wall, tiles, sinks and tubs. Use with care, as washing soda can irritate mucous membranes. Do not use on aluminum.

 

Isopropyl Alcohol - is an excellent disinfectant. (It has been suggested to replace this with ethanol or 100 proof alcohol in solution with water. There is some indication that isopropyl alcohol buildup contributes to illness in the body. See http://drclark.ch/g)

 

Cornstarch - can be used to clean windows, polish furniture, shampoo carpets and rugs.

 

Citrus Solvent - cleans paint brushes, oil and grease, some stains. (Citrus solvent may cause skin, lung or eye irritations for people with multiple chemical sensitivities.)

 

Trisodium phosphate (TSP) - a mixture of soda ash and phosphoric acid. TSP is toxic if swallowed, but it can be used on many jobs, such as cleaning drains or removing old paint, that would normally require much more caustic and poisonous chemicals, and it does not create any fumes.

 

Here’s some formulas that  you can make for general cleaning, but before applying any cleaning formulations, test in small hidden areas if possible. Always use caution with any new product in your home. Make sure to keep all home-made formulas well-labeled, and out of the reach of children. 

 

All-Purpose Cleaner: Mix 1/2 cup vinegar and 1/4 cup baking soda (or 2 teaspoons borax) into 1/2 gallon (2 liters) water. Store and keep. Use for removal of water deposit stains on shower stall panels, bathroom chrome fixtures, windows, bathroom mirrors, etc.

 

Air Freshener: Commercial air fresheners mask smells and coat nasal passages to diminish the sense of smell. 
-Baking soda or vinegar with lemon juice in small dishes absorbs odors around the house. 
-Having houseplants helps reduce odors in the home. 
-Prevent cooking odors by simmering vinegar (1 tbsp in 1 cup water) on the stove while cooking.

To get such smells as fish and onion off utensils and cutting boards, wipe them with vinegar and wash in soapy water.
-Keep fresh coffee grounds on the counter.
-Grind up a slice of lemon in the garbage disposal.
-Simmer water and cinnamon or other spices on stove. 
-Place bowls of fragrant dried herbs and flowers in room.

Carpet stains: Mix equal parts of white vinegar and water in a spray bottle. Spray directly on stain, let sit for several minutes, and clean with a brush or sponge using warm soapy water.
For a heavy duty carpet cleaner, mix 1/4 cup each of salt, borax and vinegar. Rub paste into carpet and leave for a few hours. Vacuum.

Chopping block cleaner: Rub a slice of lemon across a chopping block to disinfect the surface. For tougher stains, squeeze some of the lemon juice onto the spot and let sit for 10 minutes, then wipe.

Coffee and tea stains: Stains in cups can be removed by applying vinegar to a sponge and wiping. To clean a teakettle or coffee maker, add 2 cups water and 1/4 cup vinegar; bring to a boil. Let cool, wipe with a clean cloth and rinse thoroughly with water.

Deodorize:
-Plastic food storage containers - soak overnight in warm water and baking soda

-In-sink garbage disposal units - grind up lemon or orange peel in the unit
-Carpets - sprinkle baking soda several hours before vacuuming
-Garage, basements - set a sliced onion on a plate in center of room for 12 - 24 hours

 

Remember, results may vary and cannot be guaranteed to be 100% safe and effective.

 

 

Posted under Simple Home Maintenance

This post was written by admin on January 19, 2009

How to Determine Laminate Flooring Costs?

Laminate flooring costs vary according to the type and amount of laminate that you buy. When you want to find out how much it will cost you to install laminate on one room or your home or the whole house, you have to make up the square footage of the area.

Some of the factors that will affect the cost of laminate flooring include the type of flooring that you buy. Laminate flooring sold in narrow planks of varying sizes comes in 8 mil, 10 mil and 12 mil levels of thickness. Of these the 8 mil laminate is the cheapest. You have to weigh the costs of each of these and get an estimate from the retailer for the total cost of the square footage you want. To find the square footage of the room you are thinking of laminating, use a 25′ tape measurer  and measure the longest length and then measure the shortest length. Multiply (long length x short length). Now add 10% (this allows for breakage and having to cut pieces to fit in various places, so you do need to have extra) to that total and this will give you the total square footage. 

There is also a commercial laminate flooring available, which is the most expensive. This flooring looks almost like hardwood with the joins and beveled edges on the planks. Unlike the regular planks for laminate flooring which are all the same size, each package of this floor contains a selection of three sizes of planks - 16 inch, 32 inch and 48 inch lengths.

In order to install laminate flooring of any kind, you need to have foam insulation on the subfloor. This comes in large rolls and although it is not expensive, it does add to the overall cost.

Another factor to consider is the warranty you get with the flooring. The longer the warranty, the more costly the floor will be. Most manufacturers will not honor the warranty if you install it in areas of high humidity, such as the bathroom, the kitchen or the laundry room.

You also have to consider whether you will do the installation yourself or if you will hire a professional to do it. If you do decide on professional installation, this will increase the cost of your flooring. Laminate flooring can cost .89 cent up to $6.00 per square foot. So whatever flooring you choose, multipy the total square footage by the price per square foot.

——

Marie Portis

Posted under Simple Home Maintenance

This post was written by admin on November 5, 2008

How do you re-tile a kitchen floor?

 If you are talking about ceramic re-tiling, you first have to take up the existing tiles, because you can’t tile over the old tiles. They won’t support additional tile and will continue to crack, leaving your new tiles looking bad.

Next, you must smooth out the remaining grout so that the surface is smooth. Make sure you get out as much of the dust and debris as possible to get a firm stick with the next thing you put down.

Then, you need to lay 1/2 inch plyboard or cement board. You can use 1/4 inch, but the grout is MUCH more likely to crack, because older houses can settle.

Once you’ve laid-in the plyboard, you need to check the footboards underneath the counters, because they might have to be adjusted with the new floor height you will have. After that, you need a good sealant around the footboards in order to avoid water damage should some spill or you get a leak.

Now, take the tile you’ve chosen and the size spacers you need, if applicable. Don’t buy self-mix grout. Just buy it at the store and apply it with a dental trowel at about a 45 degree angle. It should be about 1/8 of an inch thick, at least, maybe a little more. You want it thick, but not so thick that it will crack while securing the spacers to guide you.

Butter the backs of the tile pieces lightly and start putting them down one at a time with. Start at a center point on the kitchen floor, preferably underneath the opposite wall where you enter the kitchen. This will give it a nice, uniform look, while hiding any partial tiles that you needed to cut to size under cabinets.

For ceramic tiles you will need to invest about $90.00 for a wetsaw that cuts tile. You will need it! You will also need a bucket of warm water and a cloth, because you cannot let the grout create a haze on the tiles. It is impossible to take off once it dries and it will look like a rank amateur did the work. Wipe clean as you go but don’t allow puddles to form in the grout.

Allow at least 24 hours to cure. You are done!

Posted under Simple Home Maintenance

This post was written by admin on October 9, 2008

Electrical Question

Question
I am trying to replace a regular light switch with a new motion sensor light switch.  I can’t seem to understand how the wiring works or even if the new motion sensor wiring is compatible with my existing wiring.  I was wondering if you could take a look at the pictures I have attached and see if you could tell me which wires go where.
This is the new motion sensor light switch that I purchased.
My current connections:
This is the wiring for the new motion sensor switch.
Switch Connection #1
Switch Connection #2
Answer:
You have purchased a motion sensor light switch which is designed to operate on a switch that controls one light. Switch Connection #2 photo fits the new motion sensor light switch, because the wiring in Switch Connection #1 suggest that there are more than one switch controlling one light.
 
To Install:
On your new switch you have a red, black and green wire. You will only use two wires to connect your new switch, the red and black wire. You don’t need the green wire, so I suggest you tape and bury the green wire. Your photo suggests that your home is already grounded, because your previous switch did not use the green wire. Therefore the green wire is not needed for this connection. Caution: Before you touch any wires in your home, find the circuit that you are working on and turn off the power in your main panel. (Electrically safely is very important.) In Switch Connection #2, attach the red wire to any one of the black wires, and then connect the new black wire to your other black wire. Turn your power back on and test you new switch. Follow manufacturers instruction for testing.
 
—-
 
Thanks, Marie (Winchester) Portis

Posted under Simple Home Maintenance

This post was written by admin on September 9, 2008

Single Women Who Don’t Have a Handy-Man Around

I have been a single woman for several years now, and I have found good ways to get work done around the house, without spending a lot of money. The best suggestion that I can give any single woman is to pray before you start any project around the house, because God will give you inside information that you will never think of or imagine.
 

Once I needed my air conditioning changed. So I started getting bids from companies in the $2000 plus range, but my budget only allowed for $900.00. After praying, I felt in my spirit that all I needed was someone take out the old unit and install the new unit. First, I began searching the web to look for someone just to do what I really needed. I came across this website called Service Magic (www.servicemagic.com)  to search for a plumber or heat/air condition company. After filling out their online form, in the note area I put in my search request that I only was looking for someone to take out the old unit and install a new unit. Service Magic sent me a list of contractors in my area to choose from. I enjoyed the rating system they offered, which allowed you some insight into the company or handyman you were trying to choose.
 

Secondly, I looked in the phone book for heating/air conditioning supply stores and asked them a lot of questions concerning the type of air conditioning unit I currently had and asked for advice on what was new on the market that would benefit my situation. I explained that I was looking for a air conditioning unit that would fit the square footage of my house. I was told that my house only needed a 3 ton unit. At that point, I called around for the best price I could find for that size unit. I found a supply store in Homewood, IL that would deliver the unit to my home for free. The unit only cost me $550.00. I called and set-up an appointment for the plumber to come out the same day the unit was being delivered to my house. The plumbers fee was $200.00, which was to take out the old unit and install the new one. I saved $50.00 on my budget cost because since I was an electrician, I was able to wire up the unit myself.  However in a single woman’s case, she could find an electrician the same way she would find the plumber.

 

Now that home improvement is a booming business, there are handyman sites online that you can use to request help with one aspect of a project. Also, Home Depot and Menards has a section in their “Contractor” department where they allow local companies and handymen (and women) to leave their business card for contracting their services. There are many ways to save money, but the biggest way to save is to look to your Savior.

Posted under Simple Home Maintenance

This post was written by admin on August 31, 2008

How do I determine if a wall is load-bearing? My husband and I are thinking about halving a wall in our bathroom

The best definition for a load-bearing wall in layman’s terms is a wall that holds your building structure together. The best way to check which walls are free from holding your building structure and a wall that is load-bearing is to go in your basement and look at the direction your 1st sub floor ceiling beams are going. For example, if the beams are facing the front of your house, any wall going in the opposite direction is NOT load-bearing, but any wall going in the same direction IS a load-bearing wall. If you are considering a wall on the second floor of your house, check your attic beams and follow the same principle to determine which walls can be removed.

Posted under Simple Home Maintenance

This post was written by admin on August 31, 2008